Clare and I Go To Fredericksburg, VA, for Our Anniversary Weekend Away

Our second anniversary was September 26, 2022.  We had made arrangements to stay at the Richard Johnston Inn in historic Fredericksburg, VA, on Saturday, the 24th, roam about town, eat well, and attend LifePoint Church Fredericksburg before heading home on Sunday.  As it was, after having made our reservations, we found that a couple whose wedding earlier in the summer we helped out with and are now mentoring, go figure, was scheduled to get baptized on the 25th.  After conferring, Clare and I decided to see if we could push our reservation at the Inn back to the following weekend and were successful at doing so.  So we were able to attend the baptism and join Ernest and Patricia along with an old friend of Ernest’s and her family for a long lunch after church.  It was a great day!

Anyhow, we headed off to Fredericksburg the next Saturday, 1 October, in the midmorning.  We made good time getting to Fredericksburg including finding a nice back way into the historic district and our lodging.  We were very early for check-in but were graciously allowed to park the car in the Inn’s parking lot as needed.  As we were anxious for a cup of coffee, we parked the car and headed off on foot, in the on-and-off rain, for Agora Downtown Coffee Shop, a couple of blocks down Caroline Street from the Inn.  They were doing a pretty brisk business but we were able to get served in a timely and pleasant manner and  get the last available table to sit at.

There we plotted out our next move which was to hit the Visitors Center and get some info on good places to visit, mostly indoors out of the rain.  The plan turned out to be to hit Chatham Manor first, have lunch at Amy’s Cafe next, and then go to the Gari Melchers Home and Studio, also called the Belmont House for reasons as yet unknown to us.  All these stops were on the east side of the Rappahannock River from historic Frederick.  We wouldn’t have known anything of that side of town had we not somehow managed to get routed into town that way from i95.  It worked out quite well as we bypassed lots of one-way streets and stoplights and got the parking at the Inn with ease.

Chatham Manor is now a National Park Service property having been willed to it on the passing of the last and longest owner, JohnLee Pratt.  It was built in 1771 and occupied almost ever since.  Before the Civil War, the plantation was “home” to nearly 100 slaves.  During the Civil War, it was home to thousands of Union troops and a field hospital.  The house and the gardens are beautiful.  The house unfortunately was missing what looked like wonderful porticos on the riverside.  From the house, the view looked out over the Rappahannock to historic Fredericksburg.  The overlook served as a good vantage point for Union cannons, two of which are still pointed across the river.

From Chatham Manor, we headed back north up the road along the river to the historic town of Falmouth where we had lunch at Amy’s Cafe.  They were doing a pretty good business of what looked like a combination of locals and tourists including people in town for Mary Washington College’s parents’ weekend.  There was some covered outdoor seating but given the cool weather and rain we opted to eat inside.  Clare enjoyed a cup of chili and half turkey sandwich while I relished a turkey wrap with chipotle mayonnaise and some homemade freshly cooked potato chips.  The food was so good we went back on Sunday for bowls of chili and more potato chips before driving home!

Our next stop after lunch was at Gari Melchers Home and Studio.  Gari was an American artist, mostly a painter, with a career based on a variety of different styles.  He was said to be not stuck in one particular style as many artists can be.  His studio on the property consisted of three good-sized rooms and one smaller room with paintings on display, many of them his.  The house was gorgeous.  We had a great docent who showed us around both the house and the studio.  She was very friendly, easygoing, and informative.  The grounds themselves were very nice but as it was early fall, there wasn’t a flood of colors like we might have seen there in the springtime.

We got the call while we were touring the studio that our room, the Peyton Mae, was ready so when we left the site we headed to the Inn to get settled in….no pun intended.  Our room, which we forgot to take a picture of, was comfortable with a decent view out the back of the Inn over the garden sitting area and off to a park on the other side of the street next to the river.  Unfortunately, that view of the park and river was partially blocked by new condo construction.  It’s a shame we can’t just leave a good thing alone.  The room did not have an en suite bathroom but did have a private one for us right across the hall.  There were very nice bathrobes available to keep us covered up as we traveled the 10 feet back and forth from bedroom to bath.

After relaxing a bit and pondering our dinner options, we decided to skip Fahrenheit 132 Restaurant and Cocktail Bar and consider both Rebellion Bourbon Bar and Kitchen and Billikens Smokehouse At the Chimneys.  All came well recommended.  Fahrenheit was a good 8 or 9 blocks away from us while the other two were within two blocks.  We leaned toward Rebellion but it looked pretty busy and mostly had handheld entrees which weren’t what we were looking for at the time.  So we headed back toward Billiken’s which was down the street a block past the Inn but got distracted by Sammy T’s, where we had lunch last year, and ended up stopping there.  I had a very nice Mediterranean shrimp couscous dish with sundried tomatoes, olives, etc., while Clare had a vegetarian dish based on Summer squash that was unfortunately pan-fried or baked a bit dark as to be nearly burnt on one side of the cubes.  She ate most of it nonetheless.  It did taste good!

Somewhere, sometime in our ventures, we ended up at Riverby Books.  As always, we could spend hours in bookstores.  This one, which we have visited before, has one of the greater selections, on three floors, of used books that I have seen.  Contrary to my usual book purchases, I got three relaxing mystery adventure type easy reading books for those times when I just need to mellow down easy and not strain my brain on non-fiction political, cultural, current events, and/or religious subjects.  I found at least one John Le Carre book that I hadn’t yet read.  I didn’t even realize he had any new books out since the last one I read which I believe was “The Constant Gardener.”  I see looking online that there are many more out there that I have missed.  My fascination with John Le Carre dates back to probably the early 70’s when I read “The Spy Who Came In From the Cold” and “Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy.”

To cap the evening off, we went for ice cream a few doors down from Sammy T’s at Abner B’s (Abner Butterfield Ice Cream Company) where I had a delicious coffee ice cream w/ chocolate chunks in it and Clare had a tasty mint chocolate chip if I remember correctly.  By the time we got back to our room, it was getting late so we settled in to chat, review our day, and read a bit before calling it a night.

I slept fitfully.  Clare and I have problems sleeping sometimes on our queen-size bed so the full-size in the room made for a challenge.  First-world problems right?  I was up in the morning Sunday around 0700 so I got decent and went down to the common area to get us some coffee so we could wake up and do our prayers and devotionals in the quiet of our room before breakfast at 0900.  Breakfast was fresh fruit, more coffee, with a hot from-the-kitchen frittata, toast, and hash browns. That made for a tasty, pleasant way to get the day started.  We had a good time talking with a couple from Ashville, NC, who were on a road trip and were in Fredericksburg for a family reunion.  There were fewer people sharing breakfast at the large table in the common area than last year during high covid!  The Inn was booked up but it was just the four of us at the table for breakfast.

Our plan was to go to the 1115 service at Lifepoint Church in Fredericksburg.  Since we had a bit of time before we had to check out and leave for church, we ventured out, again in a bit of rain, to Agora for a cup of good coffee.  I bought a pound of beans, a Peruvian Ethiopian blend to bring home with us.  We enjoyed our coffee at the shop before wandering back to the Inn to get in the car to head to church.

Lifepoint was good as usual.  The worship music was enriching and enlivening and the “At The Movies” series they had just started was good.  The movie for discussion was “The Pursuit of Happiness.”  The theme of the message, if I remember correctly, was that along the path of life and in pursuit of our goals we may run into many obstacles and difficulties but with faith in God and his plan for us, we can overcome.  At church, we ran into Jonathan who is the Next Steps Director.  We met him last year when we visited and he remembered us.  He’s a really great guy and a strong asset for the church especially in the position he is in, welcoming people and helping them find their place in the church.

Last but not least, I found in my pocket while we were worshiping the key to our room at the Inn.  When we got to the car after the service, I called the Inn to let them know we would be returning the key shortly.  Since we were back downtown and had been thinking again of coffee, we left the car in the Inn’s parking lot and walked back down to Agora for another cup of coffee.  It was a nice way to wrap up the weekend in Fredericksburg before we drove home.  The drive was mercifully easy and quick so we got home with plenty of the afternoon left to continue to relax, restore, and spend time together before we had to think about the work week ahead of us.

 

Visit to National Harbor

Diana and I went to National Harbor a few weeks ago to see the tree lighting.  I had never been down there before.  It was nice but I wasn’t overly impressed.  It is probably better in the summer.  The Ferris wheel is definitely cool.  I’ll have to go up in that some time.  We checked out the sites and shops, picked up few things, had coffee, attended the tree lighting ceremony and had dinner at McCormick and Schmick’s.  Here are a few pictures from the day.

Holiday in Switzerland

I am in Geneva, Switzerland, for the Christmas holiday visiting my brother and his family.  My parents have flown down from Wales for the holiday also.  My brother’s wife’s niece who attends college in Munich, Germany, is visiting too.  As such, we have a full house but it is quite big enough for all of us to hang together and/or spread out as necessary.  The location is out in the country on a road with three houses, a river in the back yard, and France on the other side.

We have been out and about to the city of Geneva, to the historic town of Gruyere for fondue, to Borc to tour the Cailler Chocolate factory, hit the farmers’ market in Vivonne-les-Bains, France, and walked the burg of Nyon on the shores of Lake Geneva.  As it may sound, we have kept busy touring and also shopping for food for meals and presents for Christmas.  I have taken a number of pictures that I am posting when I can.  They can be seen by accessing the link on the right hand side of my home page under photography.  I’ll add a couple here for convenience.

Dalyan, Turkey, Day 4

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I recall now that this was seafood dinner night at the hotel because it was also the late afternoon tour of the Lycian ruins at Kaunos led by Rami who is the hotel general manager.  I was puzzled that he would lead the tour, which left at 1600 and returned at about 1830, on a big dinner night.  I guess he trusts his staff and, from what I saw, he should.  As it was, dinner at the hotel, served poolside, usually did not start until 1930 or 2000 when the sun had dipped enough behind the mountains to provide for a cooler dining experience.  By “cooler” dining experience, I don’t mean anything related to prison food….

By Thursday, I was tired of walking from my days in Istanbul and trips back and forth to town in Dalyan.  My daily routine turned into getting up for breakfast by the pool, hanging out by the pool reading and listening to music, drinking at the pool bar, eating lunch and, when on the schedule, dinner, by the pool, and swimming in the pool.  After 8 days of being on the go, I was ready to chill and enjoying it…by the pool.

My second to last real adventure of the trip was going to the ruins.  We boarded the hotel boat at about 1600 to head to town and beyond where we docked and walked to the ruins.  The days seemed to be getting hotter as they went by and this day was no different.  The walk was quite warm but interesting because we were out in the country surrounded by pomegranate trees and watermelon plants.  As in other very hot countries I have visited, like Thailand, you just get in the habit of walking slowly to try to keep the sweat factor to a minimum.

The ruins were quite interesting as were the views from them.  To the south were the remnants of a good sized fortress way up on the top of a hill.  To the southwest on a smaller hill were the remnants of another fortress.  Far off to the west was Iztuzu beach and the river delta spreading out before it.  The ruins consisted of Roman baths, a temple, a market square, a church, and an amphitheater.  It was apparent that there was still much work to do to unearth more of the ruins and try to reconstruct them.

There was not that much walking involved but what with me being so out of shape, my knee acting up, and the heat, after the tour, I was ready to get back down to the boat, on the river, and headed back to the hotel.  I was looking forward to a shower and dinner.

I was not disappointed with the seafood dinner which included Blue crab, shrimp, calamari, and whole fish such as Sea Bream.  Sadly, after all that food, it was all I could do to drag myself to the bar to join some of the family in an after dinner raki, the anisette flavored national drink.  But I managed.  One has to keep up the routine….

Dalyan, Turkey, Day 3

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Getting up in the AM has not been as easy as it was in Istanbul for some reason.  There I was out on my balcony nearly every morning at 0600 working on pictures and/or my travel log. It is nice to sit out here in the morning by the river watching the falcons and the blue spinners gallivanting about on the air currents on the cliffs on the other side of the river.  Uncle Cliff was out here every morning and I intended to join him every day but did not meet that goal.

Today we went down to the beach, Iztuzu Beach.  The hotel boat takes you down and back for free.  The boat is designed and decorated like a traditional Ottoman boat and seems to be the only one like it on the river here.  As we motored down the river to the beach, we got our picture taken more times than I care to think about.  En route we passed through Dalyan, had another great view of the tombs, saw some incredible scenery, and stopped to watch a guy feed blue crabs to a loggerhead turtle.

We had heard conflicting reports from people about the beach which is famous for not only being the longest beach in Turkey but also being protected habitat for the loggerhead turtles that lay their eggs on the beach.  People were saying that the sand was black, volcanic sand and extremely hot.  The hotel staff and my parents, who have been there before, did not depict it as such. When we got down there we could see that it was not standard tan or white beach sand and it was damned hot.  You could barely walk on it.

The water however was a most refreshing temperature and very clear.  It is a shame there was no vegetation or fish because the water was crystal clear.  The folks were going pay for beach chairs and umbrellas and hang out there until the boat went back to the hotel but Cliff and I were going to walk down to the end of the beach where the buses came over the mountains to drop people off.

We had a great walk of about an hour along the beach and stopped at the Loggerhead turtle rehabilitation facility to see the good work they were doing there.  Cliff was a bit depressed seeing the turtles that had had their shells hacked up by boat propellers so we did not stay long.  It was a short walk from there to the bus departure area where we paid up and waited for the next bus back to Dalyan.  The ride back was very cool with some nice views of the beach, the river delta, and a quaint town tucked on the side of the mountain with quite a nice mosque in the center of town.  I had intended to take the bus back up that way, get some lunch at one of the places near the top, and take some pictures but never did so.

Once back at the hotel, we got into the usual routine.  Uncle Cliff did much exercising of his bad shoulder and practicing on his guitar.  I did much lounging by the pool and, as usual, started happy hour earlier than everyone else.  Normally, for at least part of happy hour, we had drinks on the patio outside of one of our hotel rooms.  Since it was not generally kosher to bring our own booze into the hotel and we had beer and gin, we tried to keep it low key out back rather than flaunting it poolside.

I have lost track of where we ate when.  I know we had seafood night and another BBQ with mezes night at the hotel and ate out in town two more nights so I think that we must have eaten at the hotel off the menu one night.  Everywhere we ate, the food was plentiful, good and reasonably priced but I think that the food at the hotel might have been a better overall than any of the places we ate in Dalyan.

Dalyan, Turkey, Day 2

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Tuesday was a day to familiarize ourselves with Dalyan town. We had to find ATM’s and a store where we could get a decent price on sundry goods like water, beer, snacks, etc.  Uncle Cliff had to find the post office from which he could buy a phone card and then figure out how to use it.  That took a couple of days and attempts to contact his wife Ruth since the instructions on both the phones and cards were in Turkish only.  He eventually got through but had to leave messages for two days before he finally reached her on day 3.

After a fair amount of walking around town and a delicious lunch of Turkish pancakes, we walked back to the hotel to hit the pool, cool off, and freshen up.  After that it was nearly time for happy hour.  We have been doing that partly at the pool bar and partly behind our rooms enjoying some gin that that the folks brought in en route from Wales.  The hotel frowns on bringing in your own booze and food so we try to keep it low key and not party down from our own supply at the pool.  That is kind of a downer but what can you do?

We walked back into town for dinner at a place that had riverside seating and a view of the Lycian tombs carved into the mountain across the river.  The setting was great and the food very good as it has been for the whole trip thus far.  I have to admit that my legs are bothering me from being out of shape, nerve or hip damage, and water retention.  The last walk home of the day from Daylan is usually not too fun and still pretty warm.

Fortunately the AC works fine in the room I am sharing with Cliff.  He has the downstairs room with a double and I have a single upstairs.  It is nice to be able to retreat to the AC after a trip to town or sweatfest around the pool.  I have to admit to not spending much time in the room other than for sleeping.  The days have been busy and, the heat notwithstanding, it is nicer to be by the pool, the river, or the bar.  Fortunately, despite the time change (7 hours), I have slept pretty well.  I usually get a power four or five hours and then toss and turn a bit before getting up.

Dalyan, Turkey, Day 1

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I woke up shortly before my 0430 wake up call so I finished packing and getting my poop in group.  Once my call came in I jumped in the shower.  Five hours later I was sipping coffee poolside at the Aydos Club Hotel in Dalyan.  My shuttle driver was running a bit behind schedule.  I debated whether or not I was going to have to cab it when I remembered I had printed out the hotel’s contact info.  Before I could even get that out of my backpack, the driver showed up.  30 minutes or so later I was at the hotel.

Since my family was not going to get in for about six hours, I took the short walk along the river path in to town. There are a number of hotels with riverside cafes along the way that are pretty low key. The closer one gets to town, after about a 10 minute walk, the busier it gets with more densely packed hotels and restaurants.  There is a lot of mostly tourist boat traffic on the river for trips to the beach downriver and the lake upriver.

In town are many more restaurants, tourist shops, and convenience stores.  There is a small town square with a kid’s playground and the mandatory mosque.  I did a quick recon for necessities such as beer and water and returned to the hotel.

Chilling around the pool and/or the pool side bar is the order of the day at any time of the day so that is what I did until my family got in at about at 1530.  I greeted them and we all had a quick catch up before they took the time to get settled in.  Afterward, they all explored the hotel grounds and we all met up for drinks by the pool before dinner. We ate a traditional Turkish dinner consisting of a selection of mezes and meat dishes, including kebabs and fish, by the pool. It was a very nice, relaxing meal which made for a great way to wind up our first day here at the Aydos Club hotel in Dalyan, Turkey.

Istanbul, Turkey, Day 4

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Well, again I sit on my balcony at 0600. I hit the fart sac at about 0030 this morning and still woke up at about 0400. I shut off the AC and opened the door to the balcony since the temperature was 70 degrees or less.  Of course the gulls were raucously laughing like drunks at a Robin Williams show but by now I just block them out.  I managed to cheese out a another hour and a half of sleep before succumbing to the avian comedy show.

I spent some time last night on the rooftop terrace chatting up some of the other guests in the hotel.  It was the first time anyone hung out there in the evening other than myself.  I had intended to work on my photo collection, which continues to grow, but that was a wash.  Instead I learned a bit about Jason and his wife, whose name escapes me.  They are both living in Bahrain and stopped here in Istanbul en route Sweden where the wife is from.  Jason, who hails from near Whitefish, Montana, teaches ancient history but I am not sure what his wife does.  She’s been in Bahrain ever since her Dad, who is a tennis pro, moved there.

Craig, who needs to take a chill pill…talks incessantly, and his wife Karen are from Melbourne, Australia.  Craig is an HVAC tech but I am not sure what Karen does.  Her family emigrated to Australia from Holland in the early 1950’s.  They are on a crazy trip that took them from Australia to Holland, Ireland, here in Istanbul for eight days and then they are stopping in Dubai on their way home.  On another human interest note, while having a brew at the Sultan Hostel and Restaurant, one of the waiters saw me reading the Washington Post and asked me where I was from.  I said Washington, D.C. of course. He asked me if I knew where New Jersey was and when I told him I was born there he got all excited.  He had lived in central and norther Jersey for 12 years.

Speaking of the Sultan Hostel and Restaurant which is on the strip hotels, bars, and restaurants near my hotel where I have been hanging out when not seeing the sights, I must address the silly traffic on that road.  Yesterday, early evening, on my fourth day of hanging out there, and enduring the traffic, including tourist bus after tourist bus blowing nasty, hot diesel dike fumes on me, I realized that the level of traffic could not be normal.  There is no way all those eateries almost everyone of which has outdoor, roadside tables, could have survived.

I know from having walked it that the only place that traffic could be going was the coastal highway to which the only route was through a two lane underpass that the tram passed over.  It was no wonder the traffic got so backed up.  I found out from the waiter who had lived in Jersey that, due to road construction, all the traffic including every stinking tour bus, from the tourist area that included Hagia Sophia, the Hippodrome, the Underground Cistern, the Blue Mosque, and Topkapi Palace has to take this route out of the area.  What a buzz kill!

As mentioned in the previous paragraph, I learned a bit more about the area I am staying in.  I misread the directions to Topkapi Palace, my first destination yesterday.  Instead of what should have been a ten minute walk to the Palace entrance, I took an hour walk all the way around the grounds of the palace on the coastal highway path.  As one should have inferred from my previous notes, I needed the exercise.

The morning was beautiful, people were jogging and biking on the path and even at before 1000 in the morning, men were fishing and, apparently, swimming in the, what I have read is not very clean, water.  The landward side of the path consisted mostly of the ruins of what I assumed were the old city walls.  I managed to get all the way back around to the entrance to the official palace grounds by walking through a lovely, shaded stretch of parkland bordered by the palace, a military compound, and the Museum of Islamic Technological History.

The touring agenda yesterday was Topkapi Palace and the Grand Bazaar.  Both were a bit overpowering. As previously mentioned, what should have been a ten minute walk to the palace turned into an hour.  By the time I got there the madding crowd had already arrived.  I had to bypass the kitchen area because that was already closed.  Some of the interior parts of the complex had lines so long that I just did not have the patience to wait.  Accordingly, I ambled about, saw what I could, which was a lot, learned a bit about Ottomand history and took lots of pictures.

As has become my routine, I came back to the hotel to rest, read, and cool off for a while before heading back out.  It was recommended that one take the tram to the Grand Bazaar but it was only about 400 meters to the tram and then another 400 meters to the bazaar from there so I hoofed it.  Let me say before I forget that hoofing it around here is not unlike most places I have been in Asia.  The tourists are clueless stopping everywhere and anywhere to take pictures of the sites and their travel mates.  Digital cameras have done for tourism what the Nazis did to Europe.  The locals, probably immune to the rudeness, barrel through the crowds like bulls in Barcelona.

Nonetheless, I made it to the bazaar intact which might have been strange.  Since the bazaar is reputed to be pickpocket hell I didn’t carry my usual load of cameras, binos, accessories, etc., but just took my point and shoot and my travel guide.  The travel guide, which has a suggested tour of the bazaar, was virtually useless.  Once you get inside that maze of corridors in the bazaar you might as well just give up the plan. Having to stop every 30 meters to consult the map and the signs made it pretty difficult to enjoy and get a feel for the place.  I had no intention of buying anything so I did not really need to get anywhere in particular.

As it was I just rambled about totally lost, took some pictures to record the feel of the place, had some lunch and somehow miraculously exited the labyrinth at exactly the point the guide said I should.  800 meters later I was back at the hotel for round two of rest and relaxation, cooling off, reading, and showering up. The best part of the bazaar was stopping for a late lunch at a restaurant recommended by the Rick Steves Istanbul travel guide, Kardeslar (Brothers) Restaurant.  It was tucked up two flights of stairs in a han.  There was a party of Israeli’s eating there with a Texan who obviously live here and one very Oriental looking Turk there when I arrived.  The dining area sat only about about 25 people on an open terrace protected from the sun by an arbor of grape plants.  Speaking Turkish would definitely have helped because I wound up eating what the waiter recommended; stewed meatballs and potatoes, a variety of mezes, and beans.  The food was awesome and, since there was enough food for two people, the price at 29 TL was quite reasonable.  Wish I had a doggy bag…or maybe not…

After that I had intended to have a couple of brews on the rooftop terrace and work on my photos but ended up doing some maintenance tasks such as backing up the photos and wiping the flash disk so I could have a fresh start.  It was then that I met the folks from Australia and then later the folks from Bahrain came up so it turned into social, instead of anti-social hour.  Much later I ended up at the Sultan for a night cap before returning to the hotel for much needed sleep.

And breakfast starts in four minutes.  I have to enjoy this morning since it is my last in Istanbul.  Tomorrow I will be up early again but headed of to my flight to Dalaman and road trip to Dalyan.  More news from there!